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Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.
Main Office
630 3rd Ave
15th Floor
New York, NY 10017
Phone (212) 818-0770
Fax (212) 953-2366
Adminstration
50 Avon Meadow Lane
Avon, CT 06001
Phone (860) 409-9119
Fax (860) 409-9272
E-Mail
info@dreyfusashby.com
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Cote de Beaune
Cote De Beaune Blanc |
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AUXEY-DURESSES WHITE |
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Background: The tiny village of Auxey is right
in the center of the Côte de Beaune, in a valley behind
the more famous village of Meursault. The soil is made up of limestone
and clay, both suitable for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir respectively.
The winemaking technique for the Chardonnay is traditional : picked
by hand, the grapes are gently pressed, the juice then ferments
in oak barrels. After the malolactic fermentation is completed,
the wine is racked off its lees. It ages in oak barrels for 8
to 10 months. Bottling is usually done in Spring following the
harvest.
Tasting Notes: Auxey-Duresses white, like its
neighbour Meursault, has a golden pale colour. In a ripe vintage,
there is always a fragrant apple-peach fruit flavour. With its
fine acidity and good balance, it is a wine of great charm. Also
an excellent value. Auxey-Duresses is ideal served at cellar temperature
(12°C).
Food Pairing: It goes well
with fish dishes, charcuterie, or simply by itself as an aperitif.
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BATARD-MONTRACHET |
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Background: This white Grand Cru of the Côte
de Beaune is a wine of imposing power, venerated by wine lovers
all over the world.
Situated right below Le Montrachet, its soil has a slightly different
component : a brownish limestone mixed with a lot of gravel. This
exceptional terroir causes the Chardonnay grape to act merely
as the "messenger" between this unique subsoil and the
wine itself.
The grapes are always picked by hand and brought immediately
to the winery in Beaune. A delicate pneumatic press is used so
as to retain as much as possible of the immense potential of this
precious juice.
It is then allowed to ferment in partially new oak barrels. Twelve
or thirteen months later, the wine is bottled.
Tasting Notes: With a wine of this stature,
a few years are definitely needed before a bottle should be opened.
It is only then that all the aromas of toasted bread, almonds,
honey, exotic wood can really be appreciated.
On the palate, Bâtard-Montrachet always strikes us with
its monumental structure. Interestingly, there is even a touch
of tannin that provides an added dimension.
The aftertaste is simply glorious : powerful, voluptuous and
seemingly unending.
Food Pairing: Only the most
refined dishes can do justice to such a wine : foie gras is high
on the list, followed by lobster bisque, crayfish, vol-au-vent,
sweetbread, white meat chicken in cream sauce. But whatever you
decide to serve, it is sure to be a memorable event !
2004 Joseph Drouhin Batard Montrachet
- 89-92 points
By Stephen Tanzer
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 05
Complex nose melds grapefruit, pineapple, wet stone, minerals,
pepper, menthol and white truffle. Fat, round and powerful, with
rather elegant, steely flavors of pineapple and truffle. Tightly
wound but not hard, though dominated by its structure today. Finishes
very long, rich and uncompromisingly dry. This one, too, mounts
impressively on the back end. 89-92 points
2005 Joseph Drouhin Batard Montrachet
- 89-92 points
By Stephen Tanzer
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 06
Deep, smoky aromas of peach, nuts and menthol. Fat, rich and sweet,
in an easygoing style. A big, broad wine with just enough acidity
to avoid coming off as heavy. Deep mirabelle and spice notes carry
through the fat finish. (Drouhin's powerful, tannic Montrachet
Marquis de Laguiche had barely started its malo, and the very
rich Corton-Charlemagne was in a dry, funky stage in the middle
of its secondary fermentation.) 89-92 points
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BEAUNE CLOS DES MOUCHES WHITE |
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Background: Admirably situated on a hill between
Pommard and Beaune, with a direct southern exposure, Clos des
Mouches is one of the most famous Premier Cru vineyards of Beaune.
The name "Clos des Mouches" probably goes back to the
beginning of the Middle-Ages (around 1550) because of its slopes
facing South/South-East: a very favourable place for keeping bees.
The word "Mouches" (Flies) was actually the local name
for bees. As bee keepers started to set up their bee-hives, the
area became known as "Clos des Mouches" (i.e. the Enclosure
of the Honey Bees). ®
After the destruction of the Burgundy vineyards due to the phylloxera
epidemic of 1875-1880, Clos des Mouches was entirely replanted
with Pinot Noir. Having fortunately come across some ancient documents
which revealed that the vineyard had previously produced an excellent
white wine, Maurice Drouhin, in 1921, began replanting with some
Chardonnay. The result was of exceptional quality. To-day, there
is an almost equal balance between white and red.
Some of the stocks he planted are still alive to-day. They constitute
a precious genetic pool, especially when grafted onto superior
root-stocks. They are not vigorous and produce tiny berries with
a thick skin. The density of plantation is high (12 500 vine-plants/ha)
and the yield is low (30 to 40 hl/ha).
Soil doesn't change much in the Clos. Lighter and stony at the
top, coloured with broken stones at the bottom, with a good variety
of chalky marls bringing complexity. Once harvested, the white
grapes are crushed in a pneumatic press. The juice obtained is
then fermented in oak barrels for a year during which the malolactic
fermentation will take place.
Tasting Notes: Clos des Mouches white is a generous
wine combining the body of Corton Charlemagne and the elegance
of Montrachet. Its hue is bright, limpid, and pale golden. It
has an elegantly perfumed nose of smoky citrus with tinges of
vanilla. On the palate, the aromas are reminiscent of honey, almond,
lemon and, as the wine gets older, grilled almonds.
Food Pairing: It is best served
at 12°C (53F) and is perfect with fish or white meat in sauce.
It needs at least two years in bottle to fully develop and can
last 8 to 12 years
2004 Joseph Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches
Blanc - 90-93 points
By Stephen Tanzer
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 05
Fascinating aromas reminded me of a gruner veltliner smaragd:
pineapple, snap pea, pepper and spices. Very spicy and very ripe,
with a strong pineapple flavor. Full, slowly mounting finish turns
a bit metallic and tight on the back, with a peppery nuance. Wonderfully
complex soil-inflected wine. 90-93 points
2005 Joseph Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches
Blanc - 89-92 points
By Stephen Tanzer
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 06
(malo not finished) Explosive aromas of peach,
nectarine, nutmeg, smoke and grilled nuts. Spicy and impressively
concentrated, with the nutty nuance carrying through on the palate.
Chewy, tactile and dry but smooth. Finishes strong and long but
also quite elegant. Old-viney in its creamy texture. 89-92
points
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CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET |
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Background: Located in the South of the Côte
de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet is one of the famous villages,
together
with Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, making up the prestigious
"Côte des blancs" (the slope of the "whites").
Chardonnay is the unique variety used to produce these white
wines. It is growing on limestone soil mixed with brown clay.
A careful balance between tradition and modern techniques characterizes
Joseph Drouhin vineyard management and vinification : they have
their own nursery. Ploughing and leaf removal are the only methods
used. The whole harvest is picked by hand. The grapes are gently
and slowly pressed. The juice settles down for a few hours and
is then placed in oak barrels. The fermentation starts naturally,
with no yeast inoculation. The malolactic fermentation is always
led to its natural completion. The wine matures in small oak barrels
for 9 to 10 months and receives all the necessary care before
bottling. The percentage of new oak varies with the vintage, never
exceeding 40%, so that the oak cannot dominate the fruit.
Tasting Notes: Chassagne-Montrachet always has
a beautiful, limpid, golden hue. On the nose, there are often
delicate nuances of pear, vanilla and almonds flavours. Round
and ample on the palate, the wine has length and complexity.
Food Pairing: It is best served
with white meat (turkey, veal) or fish in delicate sauces.
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CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET MARQUIS DE LAGUICHE |
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Background: Situated in the South of the Côte
de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet is one of the five villages making
up the prestigious "Côte des Blancs" ("the
slope of the whites"). It also produces a red wine.
The white wines come mainly from brown clay and limestone soils.
The slopes face East and South-East. The Chardonnay is the only
grape variety used for the whites.
Chardonnay was the favourite grape of Charlemagne. He granted
land and Roman cellars in Burgundy to the monks with the stipulation
that they expand plantings of this marvellous vine.
During the Renaissance, the Dukes of Burgundy claimed these vineyards
and cellars for themselves, the best of which are to-day part
of the vast Drouhin family estate.
This superb white wine comes from the estate of the Marquis de
Laguiche, the largest owner of Le Montrachet.
Since 1947, Maison Joseph Drouhin has the entire charge of the
estate, from the cultivation of the vineyards to the vinification
of these two famous wines and their distribution around the world.
The grapes are picked by hand in small crates, then carefully
brought to Joseph Drouhin winery in Beaune. After a slow and gentle
pressing, the juice ferments in 228 litre oak barrels.
The percentage of new oak varies with the vintage, never exceeding
40%, so that oak never dominates the fruit. The wine stays in
barrels for 9 to 10 months.
Tasting Notes: Chassagne-Montrachet Marquis
de Laguiche has a lovely gold green colour. The nose is elegant,
with pear, vanilla and apple as the dominant flavours. The wine
is well balanced and round with a nice fruity finish. Very long
and complex, this is a superb example of a great Chardonnay from
Burgundy.
Food Pairing:
2004 Joseph Drouhin Chassagne Montrachet
Marquis de Laguiche - 89-92 points
By Stephen Tanzer
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 05
Crushed stone, clove and fern on the nose, along with a positive
green character; conveys a strong impression of peppery minerality.
Very young, spicy and firmly built, with good volume. A bit disjointed
today: this will need some bottle aging to absorb its acidity.
Finishes with excellent length and lingering notes of peppery
spices and white flowers. 89-92 points
2005 Joseph Drouhin Chassagne Montrachet
Marquis de Laguiche - 88-90 points
By Stephen Tanzer
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 06
(part of the malolactic fermentation here was intentionally blocked)
Deep yellow color. Distinctly exotic aromas of apricot and honey.
Fat, lush and thick, conveying an impression of surmaturite not
shown by the other Drouhin '05s. The sweetest and fruitiest of
these 2005s but with good supporting acidity. Finishes a bit aggressive,
even phenolic, with persistent apricot fruit and a sweet floral
nuance. July hail kept the yield below 20 hectoliters per hectare,
as there were very few berries. 88-90 points
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CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE |
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Background: Corton Charlemagne is the only vineyard
in Burgundy bearing the name of two emperors : Corton comes from
Courthon, itself derived from the Gallo-Roman Curtis (estate)
and Otho, the emperor who inherited it. Charlemagne, the famous
emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, was once the proprietor of the
vineyard.
Corton Charlemagne is magnificently situated on an impressive
hill dominating the village of Aloxe-Corton. As the slope turns
from East to West, most of the vineyards face due South.
Joseph Drouhin has an estate in Corton Charlemagne. The utmost
care is given to the vines : low yields, no fertilizer, no weed
killer. Ploughing and leaf removal are used when necessary. The
wine-making techniques are traditional : barrel fermentation,
ageing in oak barrels.
Tasting Notes: Corton Charlemagne is a strong,
rich and luscious wine, very long and persistent on the palate.
It has a lovely intense golden hue, even when young. Often, the
nose profers aromas such as cinnamon, green walnuts, pepper, exotic
fruit and amber.
There is someting massive about this wine, and no word can truly
describe the awe that it inspires.
Corton Charlemagne benefits from long cellaring : it should not
be drunk before 4 to 5 years of age and can keep very well 10
to 15 years.
Food Pairing:
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| LAFORET BOURGOGNE WHITE |
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Background:
Laforêt Bourgogne Chardonnay from Maison Joseph
DROUHIN is made from 100 % Chardonnay grapes, picked by hand,
coming from all over Burgundy.
It derives its bouquet and taste from various "terroirs"
; its general character from Mâcon, its crispy structure
from Chablis, its body from Rully, Chassagne and Puligny-Montrachet
depending on certain vintages, and its overall nascent complexity
from the young vines of Joseph Drouhin's own "Crus".
Tasting Notes: Laforet has a bright and golden-green
hue.
The wine is very aromatic, full of life and fruit. It has fresh
and crispy notes, with crushed grapes and almond flavours. There
is no residual sugar.
Food Pairing: This is a wine
to enjoy young, served at 11°-12° C, alone as an aperitif
or with light meat or any sea food.

WASHINGTON POST - Wednesday, October 25, 2006; Page F05
WINE OF THE WEEK
Joseph Drouhin Laforet 2005 Bourgogne Chardonnay
($9-$12; France; imported by Dreyfus, Ashby/Wine Partners)
Tastes Like: Delicate bouquet of yellow apples,
hazelnuts and ferns. On the palate, pear and apple mingle with
vanilla and dry minerals. The long finish rings with the echoes
of these same aromas and flavors, the hallmark of a great white
Burgundy.
Grape Variety: 100 percent chardonnay. However,
in the Côte d'Or the winemakers are fond of saying, "We
don't make chardonnay, we make white Burgundy."
What's Special About It: The exceptional quality
of the 2005 vintage has provided an almost unprecedented opportunity
to discover what great white Burgundy is all about at an affordable
price. While unlikely to be confused with a $300 Le Montrachet,
this $10 wine offers a nice glimpse of the magical vibrancies
that makes great white burgundies like Le Montrachet so special.
Serve With: Light meats such as turkey or veal,
and fish in delicate sauces (also this week's Dinner in 30 Minutes,
Page 3).
How It's Made: Fermented in temperature-controlled
stainless-steel tanks, followed by a few months' aging in older
oak barrels.
Winery: The house of Joseph Drouhin is a negociant
, meaning it purchases grapes and wines grown and produced by
others and blends them to sell under its own label. In recent
years, however, the line between negociants and "estate-growers,"
who bottle only wines produced in their own vineyards, has become
blurred in Burgundy, as negociants like Drouhin now also bottle
wines from their own estates.
On the Label: Laforet (pronounced "la-for-RAY")
means "the forest" in French.
Geography: Like a drinkable map of Burgundy,
this is a blend of wines from the Chablis region in the north
to the Macon region in the south. However, what sets this apart
from most regional blends is the inclusion of overproduction from
Joseph Drouhin's prime vineyards in Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet,
which adds a subtle undercurrent of energy and complexity rarely
seen in this price range.
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MEURSAULT |
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Background: Meursault is situated a few miles
South of Beaune. It is a close neighbour of Puligny-Montrachet
and Chassagne-Montrachet. The three villages together make up
the famous Côte des Blancs in Burgundy. The origin of the
name Meursault is somewhat controversial. Some people believe
it is derived from the Latin "Muris Saltus" translated
as "jump of a mouse". More probably, it comes from an
old Celtic root, "mare", meaning swamp : the lower part
of the village is actually on very flat land. Fortunately, the
real appellation area is on chalky soil of a light brown colour,
with many broken stones that reflect the sun during the day. It
is a dry, poor soil, perfect to grow Chardonnay, the only variety
used in this appellation.
The quality of a Meursault AC (village appellation) very much
depends on the location of the vineyards and the grower's know-how
and care. Robert DROUHIN buys grapes from selected vineyards.
At harvest time, the grapes are hand-picked and pressed very gently
in a pneumatic press. The juice starts to ferment in barrels naturally.
The malolactic fermentation is always left to follow its course.
As with all other wines, Robert DROUHIN is very careful with the
use of new oak, never exceeding 30%, so that the fruit cannot
be dominated by the wood. The wine is bottled after nine or ten
months.
Tasting Notes: Meursault is a wine with a luminous
gold colour, intense fragrance and refined flavours. It is full
bodied without being heavy, with a long lasting finish.
Food Pairing: Meursault can
be served alone as an aperitif with smoked salmon. At dinner,
Meursault is recommended with delicate fish dishes, lobster, foie
gras or even poultry, as well as fresh goat cheese.
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MEURSAULT-PERRIERES |
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Background: Meursault, as a wine village, goes
back to Gallo-Roman times. The origin of the name Meursault itself
is somewhat controversial. Some people believe it is derived from
the Latin "Muris Saltus" translated as "jump of
a mouse". More probably, it comes from an old Celtic root,
"mare", meaning swamp : the lower part of the village
is actually on very flat land.
During the Middle-Ages, the monks realized that there were wide
distinctions between the vineyards. They also started to give
them names related to the general aspect of the fields or the
kind of vegetation they bore. One such vineyard was planted with
juniper trees : it became "Genevrières". Another
one was very stony : they called it "Perrières".
As a matter of fact, the soil of Perrières has a very hard
and chalky soil. It has a light brown colour with many broken
stones that reflects the sun during the day. It is dry, poor,
and the roots of the vines have to go deep into the soil to find
water. The grape variety is Chardonnay 100%.
At harvest, the grapes are hand-picked and pressed very gently
in a pneumatic press. The juice starts to ferment naturally in
barrels. The malolactic fermentation is always left to follow
its course. The percentage of new oak varies with the vintage,
never exceeding 40%, so that oak never dominates the fruit. During
the next nine or ten months, the wine slowly matures in barrels
and develops its complexity.
Tasting Notes: The bouquet of Meursault Perrières
is not only elegant and refined but also very complex. Among all
the Premier Crus of Meursault, it is the most reserved and it
always takes a few minutes for the wine to fully develop its aromas
and flavours. It is a wine of great distinction.
Food Pairing:
2004 Joseph Drouhin Meursault Les Perrieres
- 90-93 points
By Stephen Tanzer
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 05
Aromas of underripe pineapple and crushed stone. Silky and dry
on entry, then round and seamless in the middle. A firm mineral
spine and sound acidity gives the wine shape and structure without
any hardness. Finishes rich, sweet and long, with a sense of mounting
power and lovely lift. Comes across as quite different in shape
from the Marquis de Laguiche, with more obvious ripeness and sweetness.
90-93 points
2005 Joseph Drouhin Meursault Les Perrieres
- 90-93 points
By Stephen Tanzer
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 06
(this still has a bit of malic acidity to convert) Expressive
nose offers a lovely amalgam of apricot, citrus fruits and hazelnut.
Chewy, rich, dry and broad, with a strong element of wet stone;
perhaps slightly low-toned for a young Perrieres. This has very
good energy and definition, but it derives more from the wine's
minerality than from its lowish acidity. 90-93 points
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MONTRACHET MARQUIS DE LAGUICHE |
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Background: This world-famous estate belongs
to one of the oldest and most aristocratic French families : the
Marquis de Laguiche.
Out of the 14 different owners, the Marquis de Laguiche family
is propriétaire of the largest portion of Le Montrachet,
entirely located in Puligny (according to many authorities, the
better side).
It has been in their hands since 1363.
It is ironical that the hillside of Montrachet, producing Burgundy's
most prestigious white wine (and in some say the world's most
complex), should look so unprepossessing. The etymology of the
place-name is actually instructive : the word rachet refers to
a poor type of soil where only scrawny bushes can grow.
It is therefore on this "poor, hard, infertile" soil,
which geologists call Bathonian limestone, that the Chardonnay
grape develops this unique "terroir" character.
Tasting Notes: Montrachet is full bodied and
luscious, yet elegant. It is only after a few years in bottle
that it will develop its famous complexity and richness. Nose
and aftertaste are reminiscent of exotic fruit, honey, liquorice,
grilled almond and many other flavours which wine lovers over
the years have attempted to analyse. But it is perhaps a musical
word which can best describe this glorious wine : a symphony of
sensations.
Food Pairing:
2004 Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Marquis
de Laguiche - 92-94 points
By Stephen Tanzer
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 05
Highly nuanced aromas of pineapple, gunflint and smoky, spicy,
coconutty oak. Large-scaled, rich and full, with compellingly
sweet flavors of apricot and peach. The wine's thickness is leavened
by harmonious, thoroughly ripe acidity and its palate-dusting
finish shows outstanding persistence. Very impressive Montrachet,
though not yet elegant. There are more than 30 barrels of this
juice. 92-94 points
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PULIGNY-MONTRACHET |
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Background: The central part of the Côte
de Beaune comprises an area predestined to produce great white
wines, and Puligny-Montrachet is certainly one of its most glorious
examples. The clay and chalky soil, which is very stony, has good
drainage and warms through easily.
The Chardonnay is the unique grape variety used to produce these
great white wines. The House of Joseph Drouhin brings to the making
of these wines its utmost care, in the respect of tradition. At
the time of harvest, usually around mid-September, the grapes
are hand-picked in small cases, then brought to the winery "en
Chavet", in Beaune. The grapes are gently pressed. The juice
settles down for few hours before going into oak barrels. Once
the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations are completed, the
wine is racked off its lees. It is aged in oak barrels for 9 to
10 months.
Tasting Notes: The wines of Puligny possess
a whole range of very distinguished and distinctive aromas : almond
paste, fern, exotic fruits, amber and white flowers. Their acidity
on the palate is rather subtle, allowing the intense smoothness
and impressive lingering taste to come through. Although the wines
are very pleasant when young, they can usually be kept for a long
time, 6 to 8 years in a normal vintage, up to 15 years for a great
vintage.
Food Pairing: Due to the refinement
of their bouquet and the elegance of their flavours, these great
white wines are unquestionably destined to accompany haute cuisine
: shellfish cooked in a light wine sauce (court-bouillon) or any
delicate fish (such as Dover sole) prepared grilled or poached.
The wine should be served no colder than 13°C (57°F).
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PULIGNY-MONTRACHET CLOS DE LA GARENNE |
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Background: This great Premier Cru is located
above "Les Folatières". Owing to its relatively
high position on the slope and the hard, stony component of its
soil, it is one of the most interesting Premier Crus of the Côte
de Beaune. The total production of this vineyard is very small,
the vineyard being only 1.5 hectare (3.75 acres).
Joseph Drouhin does not own any vineyards in this climat but
buys grapes from vignerons with whom they have long standing relationships.
The grapes are hand-picked in small crates and brought to the
winery in Beaune. They are then pressed in a pneumatic press.
The juice settles down for one night, then goes into oak barrels
carefully chosen from Joseph Drouhin's own "library".
Joseph Drouhin buys its own oak from forests of various origins
(Tronçais, Bourgogne, Allier ...). The wood is left to
age in the open air for two to three years. Joseph Drouhin's cooper
then assembles the barrels, alternating the staves from the different
forests so as not to impart too prominent a flavour from one particular
wood. The alcoholic fermentation occurs naturally, with no yeast
inoculation. The wine stays on its lees until the malolactic fermentation
is completed. In early Spring the wine is racked off its lees
and is left to age in barrels for few more months. It is usually
bottled in June or July.
Tasting Notes: Clos de la Garenne is famous
for its unusual finesse and haunting aromas of fresh almond and
apricot, changing with time to roasted hazelnut flavours.
On the palate, the wine is well balanced, round and very elegant.
Although it has a good ageing potential, the wine reaches its
maturity after 5 or 6 years.
Food Pairing:
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PULIGNY-MONTRACHET FOLATIERES |
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Background: The central part of the Côte
de Beaune comprises an area predestined to produce great white
wines, and Puligny-Montrachet is certainly one of its most glorious
examples. Among its Premier Crus, the vineyard of Les Folatières
is one of its most famous, occupying a central position on the
higher part of the slope, next to Les Pucelles and Clavoillons.
The soil of Les Folatières is very chalky and stony : a
great part is actually limestone debris, which encourages good
drainage.
The Chardonnay is the unique grape variety used to produce these
great white wines. The House of Joseph Drouhin brings to the making
of these wines its utmost care, in the respect of tradition. At
the time of harvest, usually around mid-September, the grapes
are hand-picked in small cases and then brought to the winery
"en Chavet", in Beaune. The grapes are gently pressed.
The juice settles down for a few hours before going into oak barrels.
Once the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations are completed,
the wine is racked off its lees. It is aged in oak barrels for
9 to 10 months.
Tasting Notes: "Les Folatières"
shares with the other wines of Puligny its distinguished and distinctive
aromas of fern, honeysuckle and toasted bread. Due to its position,
there is also a characteristic "goût de terroir",
a firm backbone and the proven ability to age very well. Although
the wines are very pleasant when young, they can be kept for a
long time, 6 to 8 years in a normal vintage, up to 15 years for
a great vintage.
Food Pairing: Like all great
white wines, Puligny-Montrachet Folatières deserves to
accompany the best fish and shell fish dishes, such as lobster
or crabmeat in a light wine sauce, salmon, trout or Dover Sole
simply grilled or poached. The wine should be served no colder
than 13°C (57°F).
2004 Joseph Drouhin Puligny Montrachet
Les Folatieres - 89-91 points
By Stephen Tanzer
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 05
Pineapple, grapefruit, white flowers, stone and menthol on the
precise nose. Sweet and supple, with lovely fruit intensity. Not
yet especially complex but round, elegant and seamless, with a
dominant flavor of pineapple. 89-91 points
2005 Joseph Drouhin Puligny Montrachet
Les Folatieres - 88-91 points
By Stephen Tanzer
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 06
Pure, lively nose features spring flowers, spearmint and coriander.
Dense but juicy in the mouth, with vibrant peach and mineral flavors
and good floral cut. On the lean side for 2005 but in a positive
way. Finishes supple, with a flavor of powdered stone and sneaky
length. 88-91 points
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Issue #165
2004 Domaine
Joseph Drouhin Chablis les Clos

An outstanding wine, Drouhin’s 2004 Chablis
Les Clos is fermented and aged in one- to five-year-old barrels. Its
toasty mineral and vanilla bean-scented aromatics lead to a medium to
full-bodied personality awash in fruits. Creamy minerals and pears are
found in its concentrated, focused, and lengthy character. Drink this
beauty between 2007 and 2014.
2004 Domaine
Joseph Drouhin Chablis Domaine
de Vaudon

The 2004 Chablis Domaine de Vaudon bursts from
the glass with creamed lemons, minerals, and spices. This medium-bodied
wine reveals lovely white pepper, pear, and candied lemon flavors in
its satin-textured, well-focused character. Drink it over the next 3-4
years.
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2004 Musigny

An exotic and spicy nose features raspberry, red
current, anise and clove notes that give way to sweet, classy and notably
finely detailed flavors that are also relatively forward early but tighten
up considerably on the backend. In most vintages, this is the undisputed
class of the cellar and while it may ultimately be so once again, in
2004 it has competition. Still, lovely stuff by any standard.
2004 Grands Echézeaux

A noticeably more elegant
nose that is stunningly pure with a really lovely mix of black pinot
fruit
and violet aromas that lead to rich, sweet and stylish medium full flavors
that offer exceptionally good detail and admirably well-integrated structure
on the tight and long finish. As this wine usually goes, the tannins
are quite refined and while this is not a truly big wine, the class
is immediately obvious. If I were only going to buy one of the ’04
Drouhin grands crus, it would either be this or the Musigny.
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