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Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.
Main Office
630 3rd Ave
15th Floor
New York, NY 10017
Phone (212) 818-0770
Fax (212) 953-2366
Adminstration
50 Avon Meadow Lane
Avon, CT 06001
Phone (860) 409-9119
Fax (860) 409-9272
E-Mail
info@dreyfusashby.com
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Cote de Beaune
Cote De Beaune Rouge |
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| ALOXE-CORTON |
Background: Aloxe-Corton is a village situated
in the North of the Côte de Beaune. At an altitude varying
from 250 to 350m (750 to 1 050 feet), it benefits from an exposure
ranging East to South and South-West. In the last century, these
wines acquired great fame in Great Britain, Russia and Central
Europe because of their ability to travel well. This quality comes
from the "terroir" : chalky soil with a large proportion
of iron giving it a dark brown colour. This is where Pinot Noir
is planted as opposed to the slope on the Pernand side where pure
limestone is preponderant : that is the realm of Chardonnay and
the site of the famous Grand Cru vineyard, Corton-Charlemagne.
Joseph Drouhin's winemaking technique remains traditional : the
grapes are hand-picked, fermentation occurs in wooden open vats
with punching down the cap and pumping over the juice. The wine
ages in oak barrels for 15 to 18 months and is fined with egg
whites prior to bottling.
Tasting Notes: Aloxe-Corton wines are firm,
elegant and rather tannic. Their robe is dark red. The aromas
can be surprising : hints of cherries marinated in eau-de-vie,
cedar, and leather tones when more mature. They have a rich texture,
never too heavy nor hard, with a long finish.
Food Pairing:
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| BEAUNE CLOS DES MOUCHES RED |
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Background: Admirably situated on a hill between
Pommard and Beaune with a direct Southern exposure, Clos des Mouches
is one of the most famous Premier Cru vineyards of Beaune. The
name "Clos des Mouches" probably goes back to the beginning
of the Middle-Ages (around 1550) because of its slopes facing
South/South-East : a very favourable place for keeping bees. The
word "Mouches" (Flies) was actually the local name for
bees. As bee keepers started to set up their bee-hives, the area
became known as "Clos des Mouches" (i.e. the Enclosure
of the Honey Bees). ®
After the destruction of the Burgundy vineyards due to the phylloxera
epidemic of 1875-1880, Clos des Mouches was entirely replanted
with Pinot Noir. Having fortunately come across some ancient documents
which revealed that the vineyard had previously produced an excellent
white wine, Maurice Drouhin, in 1921, began replanting with some
Chardonnay. The result was of exceptional quality. To-day, there
is an almost equal balance between white and red.
The Clos des Mouches vineyard takes full advantage of the sun
exposure to the South-East. The hand-picked grapes are brought
to the winery in small 50-pound crates. The grapes are then pressed
and sometimes the stems are kept. An 18 day-fermentation and maceration
takes place with daily pumping over and punching of the cap. The
wine is then put in barrels where it matures, smoothes out and
looses its acidity. After 15 to 18 months of "élevage"
in wood (old and new oak) and frequent tastings, Clos des Mouches
is bottled.
Tasting Notes: It is distinguished by its elegance
and finesse : round, velvety, and beautifully balanced. It has
complexity and depth in a soft but very intense sort of way. Aromas
are very refined with ripe black cherry, spices, earthy and lightly
smoked notes with just the right touch of tannin. This wine can
be put away 10 years or even 20, depending on the vintage ; it
can also be enjoyed in its youth, with all its glorious fruitiness.
 2005
Domaine Joseph Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches
Review by David Schildknecht
WA # , #171 (Jun 2007)
Rating: 92
Representing huge domaine holdings and in effect the
Drouhin flag ship, their 2005 Beaune Clos des Mouches displays
aromas of roasted meat, wood smoke, black truffles, plum and black
raspberry. Persistently meaty in the mouth, with plum pit and
wet stone adjuncts, this is archetypal 2005: richly ripe yet with
an invigorating tart fresh edge and quite dark, even somber in
flavor shadings. The long savory finish, while pouring out a generous
helping of top quality fruit and meat juices, also offers a veritable
catalog of mineral nuances ... if only one had names for them
all. This should be terrific in 5-7 years. These 2005s were bottled
around two months earlier than usual, says Frederic Drouhin, to
retain freshness.
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| BEAUNE-GREVES |
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Background: The location of Beaune-Grèves
could not be better : right in the middle of the slope and directly
above the city of Beaune : a perfect place to admire the city's
medieval skyline, the multicoloured tiles of the Hospices and
the roof of Maison Joseph Drouhin, near the Collégiale
Church. As it happens, Drouhin owns a large parcel in this vineyard.
Beaune-Grèves is on a very steep slope. Its name probably
comes from the French word "graviers" (small pebbles),
due to the abundance of small rocks mixed with brownish soil.
The vines of the Domaine are planted in Pinot Noir fin. Their
density is extremely high and the pruning very severe. No fertilizers
nor weed killers are used. The grapes are hand-picked and brought
to the Drouhin cellars in small crates. Joseph Drouhin's winemaking
technique remains traditional, fermentation occurs in wooden vats
with punching down of the cap and pumping over the juice.
The wine ages in oak barrels for almost two years and is fined
with egg-whites prior to bottling.
Tasting Notes: Together with Clos des Mouches,
Grèves is to many people the greatest Beaune Premier Cru.
The youthful blackcurrant aromas leave place to characteristic
smoky flavours among which, pipe tobacco, with its spicy tone,
is the most distinctive.
With its elegant tannins and its light woody touch on the aftertaste,
this is a seductive wine.
Food Pairing: The wines of
Beaune and Beaune-Grèves in particular, are well suited
to great cuisine and to fine meats : grilled veal or beef would
be best with a younger vintage. Fowl, white meat and stews would
be ideal with an older one, since Beaune-Grèves ages extremely
well. But, whichever vintage you choose, it is sure to be a memorable
occasion.
 2005
Domaine Joseph Drouhin Beaune Greves
Review by David Schildknecht
WA # , #171 (Jun 2007)
Rating: 91
The Drouhin 2005 Beaune Greves sports a remarkably
Cornas-like nose of bloody red meats, resin, and black cherry.
Fortunately, the palate is all in the realm of Pinot, with bright,
faintly tart fruit accented by bitter fruit pit as well as saline
and chalky mineral notes. This packs extract without having put
on weight, and boasts an incipiently silky texture that bids fair
to become plusher with a few years in bottle. Stones, fruit pits,
subtle but deep meatiness, and bright, refined, bell clear fruit
finish the picture. I would wait 5-7 years- there’ll be
no hurry to revisit this, I suspect. These 2005s were bottled
around two months earlier than usual, says Frederic Drouhin, to
retain freshness.
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CHOREY-LES-BEAUNE |
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Background: Directly North of Beaune, Chorey
is a tiny village surrounded by Savigny-les-Beaune, Aloxe-Corton
and Ladoix. This small appellation mainly produces red wines,
exclusively from Pinot Noir. The soil is made of clay and limestone.
The wine is often sold under the more common appellation of Côte-de-Beaune
Villages. Joseph Drouhin owns vineyards in Chorey.
As in the rest of his estate, the viticultural practices remain
traditional : no weed killers are used, ploughing is the only
method. At the time of harvest, the grapes are hand-picked and
brought in small crates to the cellars in Beaune. They are partially
destemmed. The juice ferments in small open wooden fermenters.
The maceration lasts for 10 to 18 days, depending on the quality
of the grapes. The new wine goes through malolactic fermentation
in wood, then is racked off its lees. It ages for 15 to 18 months
in oak barrels.
Tasting Notes: Chorey is a light, supple, very
moderately tannic wine. Its colour is of medium depth and its
fine aroma is reminiscent of cherries and raspberries.
Food Pairing: Chorey needs
a fine but not sophisticated cuisine : roasted poultry, grilled
meats and soft cheese such as Reblochon or Brie
 2005
Domaine Joseph Drouhin Chorey les Beaune
Review by David Schildknecht
WA # , #171 (Jun 2007)
Rating: 90
The Drouhin 2005 Chorey-les-Beaune offers a fetching
nose of high-toned cherry, almond, nutmeg, and cinnamon. The purity,
delicacy and penetration of which wines from the unassumingly
flat yet almost magically well-drained vineyards of Chorey are
capable represent a special delight, and one will seldom encounter
a better example. Bright and refreshing on the palate, light and
lithe but by no means skimping on flavor concentration, this doles
out abundant sweet fruit accented by cherry pit, tart fruit skin,
and invigorating salty mineral notes. It represents an amazing
value in today’s high-priced Burgundy market that one could
only be grateful to be offered as a glass pour or as “Pinot
101.”
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CORTON |
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Background: Corton has enjoyed great fame in
Burgundy ever since the Emperor Otho gave it his name in the 8th
Century. The word "Corton" comes from curtis (the estate)
and Othon (the Emperor).
The hill of Corton is the most distinctive in Côte d'Or
: it is massive, crowned by a forest of gnarly oak trees and,
from a distance, looks like some kind of crouching animal.
Through erosion, the soil is a mixture of ochre colours, with
patches of clay and angular stones delineating various terroirs
on the slope. This explains why there are other Grand Cru vineyards
on the hill using the name Corton, such as Corton-Bressandes for
instance.
Corton (the real Corton) is not very large : it is situated at
the top of the hill, right below the line of trees, facing South-East.
Due to excellent drainage, the roots of the Pinot Noir must dig
very deep through the rocky sub-soil for their subsistence.
This is one of this wine's secrets : Corton is not made just
at the surface of the vineyard, but deep below.
One reason for the fame of Corton was its ability in the old
days to travel very well. Nothing surprising, since Corton, in
its youth, has a particularly firm structure. It is a wine which
always needs some ageing, especially in a great vintage.
Tasting Notes: Its colour is rather deep, its
nose powerful and verging on candied fruit and spices when maturing.
It has good structure in the mouth, without harshness. A good
Corton must have "gras" (a velvety texture) to counterbalance
tannin and acidity. On the palate, it recalls the candied fruit
present in the nose. Very long and persistent, it ends on a very
complex note.
Food Pairing: In Winter, there
is nothing better than to open a bottle of an older Corton and
to serve it with traditional, slowly cooked stew, or with some
great venison !
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COTE-DE-BEAUNE |
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Background: The appellation "Côte
de Beaune" is exclusively given to the wines produced in
the Beaune area. They have a distinguished and specific character
due to the soil and exposure of the vineyards. It also happens
fairly often that the cuvées of young vines of Clos des
Mouches are declassified to Côte de Beaune.
As everywhere in the Côte d'or, Pinot Noir is the only
grape variety used in this appellation. The soil, hard and chalky,
is not very deep. The slope can be steep and the exposure is South/South-East.
At harvest time, the grapes are hand-picked. They ferment and
macerate in open vats for a period of 14 to 18 days, depending
on the texture of the wine. The fermentation starts naturally
and is conducted in the classical way, forcing the cap down and
pumping over the juice.
The young wine stays in barrels for 10 or 12 months. In traditional
fashion, the wine is racked off in the Spring and prior to bottling.
Fining is done with egg white.
Tasting Notes: When young, Côte de Beaune
has a nice purple hue. The nose offers pretty and delicate fruit
flavours such as raspberry or red currant. On the palate, tannins
are smooth. The wine is pleasant to drink and has a nice finish.
This relatively rare appellation is making a very good wine.
2004 "Lip Smacking" - The Wine Advocate
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COTE-DE-BEAUNE VILLAGES |
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Background: The appellation "Côte
de Beaune Villages" can be claimed for all the villages of
the Côte de Beaune (all the communal AC), except for Aloxe-Corton,
Beaune, Pommard and Volnay. Theoretically, it could be a blend
of grapes coming from 16 different villages, but in practice they
come from only a few.
As everywhere in the Côte d'Or, Pinot Noir is the only
grape variety used in this appellation. The characteristic of
the wine is that it is the result of a wide range of soil combination
bringing great complexity to the ensemble.
At harvest time, the grapes are hand-picked. They ferment and
macerate in open vats for a period of 14 to 18 days, depending
on the taste and texture of the wine. The fermentation starts
naturally and is conducted in the classical way, forcing the cap
down and pumping over the juice. The different "cuvées"
stay in barrels for 10 or 12 months. In traditional fashion, the
wines are racked off in the Spring and prior to bottling. Fining
is done with egg whites. The wines from the Northern part of the
Côte bring great finesse, the ones from the Southern part
bring structure.
Tasting Notes: Côte de Beaune Villages
can be enjoyed when young after 2 years or so of age. It has a
nice purple hue. The nose offers pretty and delicate flavours
of red berries. It is a wonderful example of Burgundy Pinot Noir
at a reasonable price.
Food Pairing:
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| LAFORET BOURGOGNE RED |
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Background: It is well known that the Gauls
planted Pinot Noir before the Roman invasion. In 150 BC, the first
vineyards of this grape variety appeared at the top of the hills
of Meursault and Pommard.
The Romans, in turn, noticed that it liked light soil, a temperate
climate, and that it did best facing East.
With such a long history, it is clear that no other grape fits
the climate and soil of Burgundy better than Pinot.
By strictly adhering to these qualitative and historical parameters,
Joseph Drouhin wants its LAFORET BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR to be the
archetype of Burgundy.
Grapes are selected from different vineyards, generally from the
Côte de Beaune. They are handpicked and then brought to
the Drouhin cellars "en Chavet", on the outskirts of
Beaune.
The destemmed grapes ferment in open wooden vats or stainless
steel fermenters. The total fermentation and maceration last for
about 16 days.
Part of the wine is aged in barrels, part in stainless steel
tanks so that the wine can acquire more complexity and keep its
fruitiness.
Tasting Notes: The hue has usually a brillant
ruby-garnet colour. The nose offers effusive aromas of crushed
berries (raspberry, redcurrant and blackcurrant come to mind).
On the palate, the wine is full of charm and very pleasant to
drink : fresh and fruity berry flavours with light and elegant
tannins. The alcoholic content is generally around 12.5. There
is no residual sugar.
Food Pairing: It is not a wine
we recommend to cellar for many years. Drink it when young, up
to two or three years.
We suggest serving Laforet at 15°/16° C (59/61° F).
Easy to match with food, it will be best with assorted delicatessen,
poultry, white meat, "au gratin" dishes, roasted meat
and soft cheese.
 2005
Domaine Joseph Drouhin Laforet Pinot Noir
Review by David Schildknecht
WA # , #171 (Jun 2007)
Rating: 85
Drouhin’s ubiquitous, 25,000-case generic “Laforet”
displays tender, ripe cherry fruit, a silky palate and iodine-like
minerality. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne Laforet
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POMMARD |
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Background: In the world of wine, Pommard hardly
needs an introduction. From time immemorial, Pommard has been
the site of famous vineyards. Around the year 1 000, the whole
side facing South-East was covered with vines. According to tradition,
it already produced a wine reputed for its depth of colour and
its ability to travel far and wide.
To-day, Pommard is one of the largest villages in Burgundy. The
village is on a slope, in the middle of a group of vineyards facing
East or South-East. The soil, a mixture of red clay and limestone,
is responsible for the wine's original qualities : good colour,
intense bouquet and firm structure. Pommard can only be a red
wine, produced from the Pinot Noir grape. To insure low yields,
the vines are pruned very short, in the "Guyot" style.
The grapes are picked by hand and put in small crates to avoid
damage during transportation to the winery. The fermentation occurs
in open wooden or stainless steel fermenters. The total maceration
generally lasts 15 to 18 days. The wine is kept in barrels for
18 months before bottling. According to the vintage, it is sometimes
better to wait at least two years before drinking the wine.
Tasting Notes: Pommard has a lovely and powerful
complex nose reminiscent of black cherries and spices. On the
palate, it has a good structure with generous fruit and subtle
tannins.
Food Pairing: This great red
Burgundy deserves a more traditional cuisine : red meat in light
sauces, game, venison and ripe cheeses will create a rich tapestry
of flavours worthy of a medieval feast.
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| SANTENAY |
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Background: Located nearly in the Southern end
of the Côte de Beaune, after Chassagne-Montrachet, Santenay
is a pretty, quiet village producing lovely red wines from Pinot
Noir. It is a rather large appellation, with the vineyards having
a more Southerly exposure due to the change of direction of the
Côte. The wines produced on this terroir have a remarkably
deep red colour and a very firm chewy structure which gives them
excellent ability to age. At harvest time, the grapes are hand-picked.
They ferment and macerate in open vats for a period of 14 to 18
days, depending on the taste and texture of the wine. The fermentation
starts naturally and is conducted in the classical way, forcing
the cap down and pumping over the juice. In traditinal fashion,
the wines are racked off in the Spring and prior to bottling.
Fining is done with egg whites.
Tasting Notes: Joseph Drouhin's Santenay has
an intense ruby-red colour and the fragrances of cherries, raspberries
and truffles. The tannins are usually supple. The finish, medium-long,
is extremely pleasant and aromatic.
Food Pairing: It is a delicious
example of Burgundy Pinot Noir, a good value and an excellent
accompaniment to all kinds of cuisines.
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| SANTENAY BEAUREPAIRE |
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Background: This midslope Premier Cru vineyard
is located right above the village of Santenay and, according
to tradition, was the favourite rendez-vous place for the village's
lovers during the Spring.
The grapes are picked by hand and brought to the winery
in Beaune. They ferment naturally and slowly in open wooden vats.
The total fermentation and maceration lasts up to two weeks. The
wine is then "raised" in oak barrels for one year and
a half. It is fined with egg-whites prior to bottling.
Tasting Notes: Today, the Pinot Noir grape produces
a beautiful ruby red wine, with aromas of violets and wild berries.
Santenay-Beaurepaire has good, firm structure, yet does not taste
rough on the palate. It ages quite well.
Food Pairing: Santenay-Beaurepaire
is a perfect accompaniment to red and white meats as well as ripe
and creamy cheeses.
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| SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE |
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Background: Savigny is a charming village, tucked
away in a little valley between Pernand and Beaune. A remarkable
feature of the appellation is that the vineyards are planted on
two hills with different exposures : North is the Vergelesses
slope, producing delicate, perfumed wines ; South is the start
of the Beaune Côte, where the wines are more firmly structured.
The red wines are made with the Pinot Noir grape. There is also
a tiny production of white wines.
The fermentation occurs in open wooden or stainless steel fermenters.
The total maceration generally lasts 15 to 18 days. The wine is
kept in barrels for 18 months before bottling.
Tasting Notes: Savigny-les-Beaune is a delicate
and elegant wine showing intriguing spicy notes as well as wild
berries. The spicy character is typical to that area. On the palate,
the wine has considerable finesse and elegance. It develops harmoniously
between 3 to 10 years of age.
Food Pairing: As its close
neighbour, Pernand-Vergelesses, Savigny goes very well with the
simplest cuisine or the typical bistro fare. It represents excellent
value and should be sought after for its inimitable "goût
de terroir".
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SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE SERPENTIERES |
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Background: The origin of the vineyard
names in Burgundy goes back to the earliest inhabitants,
the Celts first and then the Gallo-Romans. Even before the
vine had totally conquered the Côte, these people
were struck by the great variety in their terroirs. This
explains why there are so many place-names that refer to
the type of soil (stones, clay, chalk, etc) or the daily
life of the vigneron : partridge, oak tree or ... snakes.
Serpentières thus acquired its name for ever ! From
the very beginning, the wines of Savigny were thought to
be "Nourishing, Theological and Death Averters"
(Nourrissants, Théologiques et Morbifuges). They
were also reputed for their finesse ; the monks and other
eminent Church people, in their great wisdom, secured the
best parcels. The soil of Serpentières, a layer of
Bathonian chalk mixed with sharp angular stones, is certainly
responsible for the fame of this vineyard.
But, it is in the painstaking cultivation of the Pinot
Noir grape that the finest quality can be produced.
Tasting Notes: Savigny-Serpentières
has a unique colour : limpid, bright, cherry-like. On the
nose, we would expect the usual red berry or honeysuckle
aromas. In fact, Serpentières has all that and much
more : nutmeg, paprika and even red pepper ! These aromas
are subtle and refined and, as we taste the wine, lead to
other pleasures : a delicate framework and soft tannins.
Food Pairing: Savigny-Serpentières
needs 3 or 4 years before fully expressing itself, although
it can improve further after 5 to 6 years. It goes best
with lamb, filet mignon, veal with wild mushrooms, roast
chicken. An elegant cuisine, not too strong or spicy, is
obviously a requisite.
In its own way, Savigny-Serpentières is an excellent
example of what Côte de Beaune can produce : finesse
and originality.
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| VOLNAY |
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Background: In the Côte de Beaune,
not far from Beaune, the lovely and tiny village of Volnay
is surrounded by vineyards. The slope faces East/South-East
and benefits from a privileged position and plenty of sunshine.
From the village itself, the view is superb.
Crowned by a limestone plateau, the Volnay vineyards have
a subsoil of Argovian marlstone, and in the bordering parts
of Pommard and Meursault, a layer of Bathonian limestone.
The grape variety is 100% Pinot Noir.
Joseph Drouhin owns vineyards in Volnay but also buys grapes
from excellent Premier Crus such as Volnay Chevret. The
grapes, as delicate as the wines they produce, are handled
with the utmost care.
Tasting Notes: Volnay combines distinction,
nobility, finesse, and elegance. The colour has shades going
all the way from light vermilion to the deepest ruby. Its
delicate bouquet is reminiscent of red berries and violets,
and its tannins blend harmoniously into an elegant and complex
aftertaste.
Volnay is a wine much sought after by connoisseurs, collectors
and wine lovers alike.
Food Pairing:
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| VOLNAY-CHEVRET |
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Background: A "chevret" is a
young goat in French. It is difficult to explain why it
received this name in the first place. Is it because the
vignerons of old did not want their goats to come in and
ruin the year's crop ? No one really knows, but all agree
that this is one of the most highly esteemed vineyards in
Volnay.
The vines are planted at mid-slope on a layer of marl mixed
with gravel and stones. Here, the slope is gentle with great
exposure : the sun shines on it from morning to evening.
Volnay is a village of strict traditions starting with
the close planting density and the rigorous pruning of the
Pinot Noir grape according to the Guyot method.
The harvest is done by hand. The maceration in open vats
takes between 17 to 18 days, with pigeage (the punching
down of the cake that forms at the surface) still practised
and revered as the only way to bring out the fullest potential
from the terroir. While slowly ageing in barrel, the wine
throws off its lees which need to be racked off several
times before bottling.
Tasting Notes: To be fully appreciated,
Volnay-Chevret should be drunk after 2 or 3 years of age
in bottle. Its colour is a brilliant red. Its flavours are
flowery, with violet as dominant aroma. The bouquet blooms
with age and leaves place to dried leaf and damp earth tones.
On the palate, the three main sensations of acidity, tannin
and alcohol are in perfect unison and give a delicate impression
of softness and velvet. There is nothing flabby here : the
structure is firm and under control.
Food Pairing: For a wine
like Volnay-Chevret, a delicate cuisine, not too spicy nor
flavourful, is required : roasted meat, white meat in sauces,
chicken, hare. Garden vegetables would be the ideal side
dishes. Volnay-Chevret is a charming and seductive wine.
It is both a pleasure and an education to drink it.
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| VOLNAY-CLOS DES CHENES |
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Background: In their great wisdom, the
ancestors of to-day's vignerons felt compelled to give a
name to each parcel of land which they cultivated. Transmitted
through the ages, these names are like short descriptions,
and are still in use today. Thus, Clos des Chênes
in Volnay (the enclosure of the oaks) : we know that oaktrees
grew there even before the arrival of the vine. The Drouhin
family owns a beautiful vineyard in this Premier Cru. Some
notebooks written by Robert's father and grandfather have
been handed down to the present generation and contain a
treasuretrove of information on the vineyard itself and
its history : frosts, diseases, soil characteristics, rebuilding
of stone walls, etc. Volnay Clos des Chênes produces
a remarkable wine, especially when tradition is respected.
Robert Drouhin is fond of saying : "Enology is necessary
but should never displace our traditions. If too much technology
is used, all wines taste alike. They become neither good
nor bad, just average.
On the other hand, common sense and a deep respect for
tradition will guarantee the individuality and quality that
only terroir can offer".
Tasting Notes: The wine has a gorgeous
rubylike colour. Among the aromas, all subtle and elegant,
it is the violet which has made this wine so famous. There
are of course others, just as charming : rose petals and
wild strawberries (fraises des bois) are perceptible and
contribute to the overall finesse.
These same impressions are carried through on the palate
where they mingle with a velvety softness and refined tannins.
To the taster, it comes as no surprise that the aftertaste
of the wine is particularly long, flowery and fruity.
Food Pairing: In Burgundy,
fowl and white meats are the choice accompaniment for Clos
des Chênes : chicken, veal, hare. The cheeses should
be on the mild side.
Graceful and flavourful, Volnay-Clos des Chênes is
certainly one of the most charming Burgundy wines.
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Issue #165
2004 Domaine
Joseph Drouhin Chablis les Clos
An outstanding wine, Drouhin’s 2004 Chablis
Les Clos is fermented and aged in one- to five-year-old barrels. Its
toasty mineral and vanilla bean-scented aromatics lead to a medium to
full-bodied personality awash in fruits. Creamy minerals and pears are
found in its concentrated, focused, and lengthy character. Drink this
beauty between 2007 and 2014.
2004 Domaine
Joseph Drouhin Chablis Domaine
de Vaudon
The 2004 Chablis Domaine de Vaudon bursts from
the glass with creamed lemons, minerals, and spices. This medium-bodied
wine reveals lovely white pepper, pear, and candied lemon flavors in
its satin-textured, well-focused character. Drink it over the next 3-4
years.
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2004 Musigny
An exotic and spicy nose features raspberry, red
current, anise and clove notes that give way to sweet, classy and notably
finely detailed flavors that are also relatively forward early but tighten
up considerably on the backend. In most vintages, this is the undisputed
class of the cellar and while it may ultimately be so once again, in
2004 it has competition. Still, lovely stuff by any standard.
2004 Grands Echézeaux
A noticeably more elegant
nose that is stunningly pure with a really lovely mix of black pinot
fruit
and violet aromas that lead to rich, sweet and stylish medium full flavors
that offer exceptionally good detail and admirably well-integrated structure
on the tight and long finish. As this wine usually goes, the tannins
are quite refined and while this is not a truly big wine, the class
is immediately obvious. If I were only going to buy one of the ’04
Drouhin grands crus, it would either be this or the Musigny.
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