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Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.
Main Office
630 3rd Ave
15th Floor
New York, NY 10017
Phone (212) 818-0770
Fax (212) 953-2366
Adminstration
50 Avon Meadow Lane
Avon, CT 06001
Phone (860) 409-9119
Fax (860) 409-9272
E-Mail
info@dreyfusashby.com
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CHABLIS
This famous region is located some 140 kilometers (80 miles)
north of Côte d'Or.
In the 19th century, there were more than 40,000 hectares of vineyards
in the Department of Yonne (where Chablis is located), out of which 1000
only were planted with " Beaunois " as the Chardonnay was then
called. The phylloxera crisis of 1885 decimated the vines, to such an
extent that in 1960 there were barely 500 hectares planted. With the help
of old maps and geological documents, Drouhin reconstituted the vineyards,
replanting only in the authentic part of the appellation.
Today, Drouhin owns 37 hectares (92 acres) with
a sizeable portion in the Grand and Premier Crus.
GRAND CRUS : Chablis Les Clos, Chablis Vaudésir.
PREMIER CRUS : Chablis Montmains, Séchers, Vaillons.
CHABLIS and CHABLIS DOMAINE DE VAUDON : most of the
vineyards are located in the Valley de Vauvillien. Vaudon comes from the
best parcels, all located on the right bank of the Serein river, between
Montée de Tonnerre and Mont de Millieu.
The Chablis vineyard is the most northerly in Burgundy and enjoy a long-standing
world-wide reputation for its elegant, dry white wines.
The vines (of the Chardonnay variety) cover rather more than 4,000 hectares
of clayey-limestone soil in Chablis itself and some twenty other neighbouring
communes and produce wines of four appellations. In descending order of
quality : Chablis Grand Cru, Chablis Premier Cru, Chablis, Petit Chablis.
The Chablis vineyards, near the town of Auxerre, are half-way between
Dijon and Paris. They are spread over the hill-slopes on either side of
the pretty valley of the river Serein.
These vineyards were once much greater in extent, covering every hillside
between here and the Côte d'Or. But at the end of the 19th century
they were devastated by the twin plagues of phylloxera and mildew. When
the vineyards were reconstituted with new, grafted stocks, it was decided
to replant only the most-favoured areas and those least vulnerable to
frost damage.
Though vines used to form an element in mixed farming, nowadays virtually
all the AOC vineyards are monocultures. Specialisation has favoured the
current trend towards mechanisation, including mechanised harvesting.
Climate
Broadly continental. The summers are hot, which benefits maturation, but
spring frosts in April and May are not uncommon. Some holdings are equipped
with frost-protection devices - oil burners, giant fans which mix layers
of cold with warmer air, or water sprinklers fed from specially-constructed
reservoirs.
Soil and grape variety
The pebbly soil derives from Jurassic (mainly Kimmeridgian) clays and
limestones. It is ideally suited to the Chardonnay grape, the only permitted
variety for Chablis AOCs.
The pebbly soil derives from Jurassic (mainly Kimmeridgian) clays and
limestones. It is ideally suited to the Chardonnay grape, the only permitted
variety for Chablis AOCs.
CHABLIS |
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Background: At harvest time, the grapes are pressed
at Joseph DROUHIN's own winery in Chablis. The juice is then brought
to the cellars in Beaune. The plain Chablis ferments in stainless
steel tanks under controlled temperature. After 7 to 8 months of
ageing, the wine is bottled.
Tasting Notes: The colour of Chablis is pale straw
with green tinges. There is a fruity and fragrant nose, reminiscent
of mint leaves and, at times, lemongrass. It is generally medium
to full bodied with a characteristic flinty aftertaste.
Food Pairing: Chablis usually
ages 5 to 8 years. It is excellent served as an aperitif or with
seafood, such as oysters, sea shells (of course !) and fish.
 Joseph
Drouhin Chablis 2004 - 87 Points
Focused and expressive, this white exibits lemon, apple and stone
notes on a firm frame. Very crisp finish. Drink now through 2008.
1,600 cases imported. - B.S. Aug 31, 2006
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CHABLIS VAUDON |
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Background: After many years of closely following,
studying and tasting the wines of his estate, Robert DROUHIN realized
that the moment had come to produce a Chablis of great breed and
finesse from the best parcels : Domaine de Vaudon.
The vines are pruned short so as to have low yield. In keeping with
the time honoured Chablis tradition, berries are pressed very gently,
the fermentation is as slow as possible ; the wine is the left to
age a few months in oak barrels.
Tasting Notes: Domaine de Vaudon is a Chablis
of great elegance and finesse. A luminous greenish hue, floral aromas
with a touch of spice and a light and balanced concentration, all
spell Chablis at its highest level of quality.
Food Pairing: Chablis usually
ages 5 to 8 years. It is excellent served as an aperitif or with
seafood, such as oysters, sea shells (of course !) and fish.
 Joseph
Drouhin Chablis Domaine de Vaudon 2004 - 90 Points
This has a creamy texture as a counterpoint to its vivid structure,
lending and overall impression of finesse. Lemon and mineral are
the flavors, ending with a mouthwatering finish. Drink now through
2012. 1,000 cases imported. B.S. - Aug 31, 2006
 2004
Domaine Joseph Drouhin Chablis Domaine de Vaudon
Domaine Joseph Drouhin
Vallee de Vaudon, Chablis, Burgundy, France
Chardonnay (a dry white table wine)
Review by Pierre Rovani
Wine Advocate #165 (Jun 2006)
Rating: 89 points
Drink 2006-2010
Estimated Cost: $23.00
The 2004 Chablis Domaine de Vaudon bursts from the glass with creamed
lemons, minerals, and spices. This medium-bodied wine reveals lovely
white pepper, pear, and candied lemon flavors in its satin-textured,
well-focused character. Drink it over the next 3-4 years.
Importer: Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770
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CHABLIS PREMIER CRU |
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Background: Pruning is very short in order to
keep the yields as low as possible. The grapes come from three famous
Premier Cru vineyards : Vaillons, Montmains and Sécher. At
harvest time, the grapes are hand-picked, then carefully pressed.
The juice ferments in barrels and stainless steel tanks. After 7
to 8 months of ageing, the wine is bottled.
Tasting Notes: Chablis Premier Cru has very attractive
and intense aromas reminiscent of coriander, orange, lemon and many
other intriguing flavours. Generous, round and long on the palate,
it is also full bodied with refreshing vivacity. The wine can be
kept 7 to 8 years in the cellar, or even more in a good vintage.
It is also pleasant at 3 or 4 years of age.
Food Pairing: Chablis usually
ages 5 to 8 years. It is excellent served as an aperitif or with
seafood, such as oysters, sea shells (of course !) and fish.
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CHABLIS PREMIER CRU MONTMAINS |
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Background: At harvest time, the grapes are hand-picked.
The various Permier Crus are vinified separately. The pressing is
slow and gentle. The alcoholic fermentation starts naturally in
stainless steel fermenters and carefully selected barrels. After
8 to 9 months of ageing, the wine is bottled.
Tasting Notes: Chablis Montmains, one of the best
Premier Cru vineyards, is a Chablis of great elegance with good
ageing potential : 5 to 8 years, even 10 to 12 in a good vintage.
Food Pairing: It is excellent served as an aperitif
or with seafood, such as oysters, sea shells (of course !) and fish.
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CHABLIS PREMIER CRU SECHER |
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Background: The Premier Cru vineyards are located
on both sides of a charming river, the "Serein", which
flows through Chablis and its region. These vineyards were awarded
the appellation "Premier Cru" because of their better
exposure and their higher content of Kimmeridge clay (the billions
of petrified shells from the Jurassic era).
Chablis is still a difficult region for the wine-maker. The climate
is continental, hot in Summer and cold in Winter. Frosts are frequent.
In spite of all these hardships, Joseph Drouhin is adamant to keep
the yields in his vineyards as low as possible by pruning very short.
At harvest time, the grapes are hand-picked and pressed at Joseph
Drouhin's own winery in Chablis. The next day, the must is brought
to the cellars in Beaune and put in barrels for the alcoholic fermentation.
After eight or nine months of ageing in oak, the wine is bottled.
Tasting Notes: Chablis Premier Cru Sécher
is on the same slope as Vaillons. It has nearly the same kind of
flinty aromas. On the other hand, on the palate, it has a steely
nerve all of its own.
Food Pairing: It is excellent served as an aperitif
or with seafood, such as oysters, sea shells (of course !) and fish.
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CHABLIS GRAND CRU LES CLOS |
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Background: Les Clos is one of the seven Grand
Crus on the large hill directly overlooking the town of Chablis.
It is here that the vine was first planted : its name probably refers
to the stone walls that surrounded the vineyard centuries ago.
Tasting Notes: Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is quite
a special wine. With its hue of green and gold, its penetrating
aroma and its unique combination of elegance, nerve and flintiness,
it is unsurpassed. It also has an excellent potential for ageing,
and after 5 or 6 years, the wine develops even greater, more complex
flavours. In a good vintage, it will keep easily 15 to 20 years
!
Food Pairing: It is excellent
served as an aperitif or with seafood, such as oysters, sea shells
(of course !) and fish.
 2004
Domaine Joseph Drouhin Chablis les Clos
Domaine Joseph Drouhin
Les Clos, Chablis, Burgundy, France
Chardonnay (a dry white table wine)
Review by Pierre Rovani
Wine Advocate #165 (Jun 2006)
Rating: 93 points
Drink 2007-2014
Estimated Cost: $85.00
An outstanding wine, Drouhin’s 2004 Chablis Les Clos is
fermented and aged in one- to five-year-old barrels. Its toasty
mineral and vanilla bean-scented aromatics lead to a medium to full-bodied
personality awash in fruits. Creamy minerals and pears are found
in its concentrated, focused, and lengthy character. Drink this
beauty between 2007 and 2014.
2004 Joseph Drouhin Chablis Les Clos - 91-93
points
By Stephen Tanzer
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 05
Very pale color. Bright pineapple on the nose, along with hints
of more exotic fruits and toasted bread. Offers a more enveloping
texture than the Vaudesir, and has the buffering fruit to support
its powerful pineappley acidity. Denser and fatter than the Vaudesir
but with terrific cut. A very unevolved Chablis with a slow-mounting,
palate-staining aftertaste. 91-93 points
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CHABLIS GRAND CRU VAUDESIR |
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Background: Chablis is still a difficult region
for the wine-maker. The climate is continental, hot in Summer and
cold in Winter. Frosts are frequent. In spite of all these hardships,
Robert DROUHIN is adamant to keep the yields in his vineyards as
low as possible by pruning very short. At harvest time, the grapes
are hand-picked and pressed at Joseph DROUHIN's own winery in Chablis.
The next day, the must is brought to the cellars in Beaune and put
in barrels for the alcoholic fermentation. After 8 to 9 months of
ageing in oak, the wine is bottled. The wine Vaudésir is
one of the seven Grand Crus of Chablis and one of its largest, occupying
a central position on the large hill overlooking the town of Chablis.
A small vale, carved in the middle, gave its name to the vineyard
: Val du Désir.
Tasting Notes: As a wine, Vaudésir has
a lovely, limpid, slightly green golden hue. The aromas are often
reminiscent of coriander and fern, with a somewhat lemony scent.
Round on the palate, it has a long, complex finish. This is a wine
to keep : its ageing potential is quite good.
Food Pairing: It is excellent
served as an aperitif or with seafood, such as oysters, sea shells
(of course !) and fish.
2004 Joseph Drouhin Chablis Vaudesir - 89-92
points
By Stephen Tanzer
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 05
Precise, perfumed aromas of lemon, cold steel, pepper and coriander.
Juicy, steely and very firmly built, with a lemony citricity and
penetrating acids framing and extending the wine's fruit. A very
brisk Chablis grand cru, with an exhilarating sugar/acid balance.
89-92 points
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Issue #165
2004 Domaine
Joseph Drouhin Chablis les Clos
An outstanding wine, Drouhin’s 2004 Chablis
Les Clos is fermented and aged in one- to five-year-old barrels. Its
toasty mineral and vanilla bean-scented aromatics lead to a medium to
full-bodied personality awash in fruits. Creamy minerals and pears are
found in its concentrated, focused, and lengthy character. Drink this
beauty between 2007 and 2014.
2004 Domaine
Joseph Drouhin Chablis Domaine
de Vaudon
The 2004 Chablis Domaine de Vaudon bursts from
the glass with creamed lemons, minerals, and spices. This medium-bodied
wine reveals lovely white pepper, pear, and candied lemon flavors in
its satin-textured, well-focused character. Drink it over the next 3-4
years.
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2004 Musigny
An exotic and spicy nose features raspberry, red
current, anise and clove notes that give way to sweet, classy and notably
finely detailed flavors that are also relatively forward early but tighten
up considerably on the backend. In most vintages, this is the undisputed
class of the cellar and while it may ultimately be so once again, in
2004 it has competition. Still, lovely stuff by any standard.
2004 Grands Echézeaux
A noticeably more elegant
nose that is stunningly pure with a really lovely mix of black pinot
fruit
and violet aromas that lead to rich, sweet and stylish medium full flavors
that offer exceptionally good detail and admirably well-integrated structure
on the tight and long finish. As this wine usually goes, the tannins
are quite refined and while this is not a truly big wine, the class
is immediately obvious. If I were only going to buy one of the ’04
Drouhin grands crus, it would either be this or the Musigny.
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