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Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.
Main Office
630 3rd Ave
15th Floor
New York, NY 10017
Phone (212) 818-0770
Fax (212) 953-2366
Adminstration
50 Avon Meadow Lane
Avon, CT 06001
Phone (860) 409-9119
Fax (860) 409-9272
E-Mail
info@dreyfusashby.com
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Visit www.drouhin.com
for the complete history of Joseph Drouhin
Maison Joseph Drouhin’s winemaker, Madame Laurence
Jobard, is a fan of the 2002 vintage, yet prefers the reds to the whites.
Also, unlike most of her colleagues, who are enthralled with this vintage
in Chablis, she feels the grapes may have been too ripe
Medium-bodied, lush, and sporting a deeply spicy, pear-scented nose,
the 2002 Chablis Vaudon is packed with
apples, pears, minerals, slate, and tangy rinds. It is silky-textured
and displays a long, supple, expressive finish. Drink it over the next
4-5 years. Those with preconceived notions of what a Chablis should taste
like will be surprised by the ripe, rich, lush, fruit-dominated 2002
Chablis Vaillons. Spicy yellow plums can be found in its aromas.
On the palate, this broad, plump, deep, fleshy wine offers fresh flavors
of creamed pears and apples. It should be drunk over the next 4 years.
The sultry 2002 Chablis Vaudesir boasts
a rich nose of almonds and minerals. This sappy, medium-bodied wine is
expansive, plush, and packed with vanilla as well as resin-laced minerals
that reappear in its prolonged finish. Drink it over the next 5 years.
Drouhin's excellent 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet
contains declassified premier pro wines. Its expressive aromatics reveal
earthy minerals. Medium-bodied, ripe, filled with pears, earth, stones,
and apples, it is a satiny-textured, flavorful wine for drinking over
the next 34 years. A rich, bold, spicy wine, the 2002
Chassagne-Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche is lush and medium-bodied.
Suave, highly expressive, and velvety-textured, it posts the tasters palate
with copious quantities of minerals, pears, and spices. Projected maturity:
now-2009.
Harvested at 14% natural potential alcohol, the 2002
Meursault Perrieres reveals a creamed hazelnut laden nose. Medium-bodied,
broad, rich, and plush, this is a fat, velvety-textured wine packed with
creamy pears and spices. It should be drunk over the next 3-5 years. The
2002 Beaune Clos des Mouches offers a
nose of vanilla, fresh herbs, ginger, and spices. Medium-bodied, fleshy,
spicy, and plush, it has excellent to outstanding depth. Sappy minerals
dominate this effort's flavor profile. Projected maturity now-2010. Minerals,
rosemary, and talcum powder can be found in the nose of the 2002
Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières. A broad, sappy, soft
wine, it reveals lush layers of pears, flowers, and stones. It is expressive,
seamless, and velvety Drink it over the next 6 years. The aromatics of
the 2002 Puligny Montrachet Las Pucelles
consist of vanilla, coconut, and spices. This rich, medium-bodied, lush,
oak-laced wine is soft, spicy, and reveals excellent to outstanding depth
of fruit. It is a forward effort with lovely density and a temple mouth-feel.
Drink it over the next 6 years.
The 2002 Bâtard-Montrachet was
harvested at 14.2% natural potential alcohol. Its intense aromas display
loads of spices and minerals. Medium-bodied, lush, and revealing outstanding
intensity, it coats the palate with smoky, bacon-laced, honeyed minerals,
sap, and fresh pears. This is a wine of great ripeness that has retained
enough freshness for balance. Drink it over the next 8-9 years. Spices,
minerals, ginger, and pears can be discerned in the aromatics of the 2002
Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche. Harvested at 14.1% natural potential
alcohol, it is a deep, medium-bodied, sappy wine with an admirably long
finish. This is consistently the wine Maison Drouhin gives the longest
elevage to, something the 2002 will benefit from, as it needs to flesh
out its somewhat tight mid-palate. Projected maturity: 20062015.
Importer: Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770
Other Recommended Wines: 2002 Corton-Charlemagne (7; $210.00); 2002 Meursault
(85; $50.00); 2002 Meursault En Luraule (85-86; $55.00); 2002 Puligny-Montrachet
(85-87; $60.00); 2002 Rully (87; $22.00)
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Burghound.com’s 2002 Vintage Selections
Top Value Wines from the 2002 vintage in this Issue |
| 2002 Chambolle-Musigny Joseph Drouhin
88 |
| |
"Don’t Miss” Wines from the
2002 vintage in this Issue |
| 2002 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Joseph Drouhin
94 |
| 2002 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Amoureuses”
1er Joseph Drouhin 93 |
| 2002 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru Joseph
Drouhin 94 |
| 2002 Musigny Grand Cru Joseph Drouhin
94 |
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Philippe Drouhin and resident enologist Laurence Jobard described
the 2002 vintage as “one of those vintages where almost everything
was easy, except perhaps for a bit of anxiety at the appearance
of some rot at the end of August. Thankfully, the north wind appeared,
dried up the rot and concentrated the fruit. However, there was
just enough rot tinge where we thought it best to sort out those
bunches. We had excellent ripeness and high sugars and thus, there
was very little chaptalization. The malos were extended and we elected
to rack when they finished. The wines are also on the tender side
and thus we decided to bottle a bit earlier than usual as we felt
there was no further benefit to be had and there was the risk of
some wines drying out if left in cask and almost everything was
in bottle by December”. Overall, as the scores suggest, this
is an outstanding vintage for Drouhin and perhaps even a bit better
across the board than 2001; given the present price differences
though, do not pass up the chance to acquire the Drouhin 2001s;
to this end, I also asked to taste the 3 wines that I had missed
in 2001 because they were being racked on the day of my visit and
the notes are included below. (Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York,
NY
2002 Chorey-lès-Beaune:
Exuberant red cherry and raspberry fruit notes lead to supple, delicious
and lively flavors that display only a touch of finishing structure
and an attractive shot of intensity. Give this a year in bottle
and drink with light fare, summer meals and the like. Lovely for
what it is. 86/2005+
2002 Beaune “Clos des Mouches”:
Classic ruby. This is a much more serious wine with deeper, richer
and earthier fruit aromas followed by sappy, precise, nicely complex
and racy flavors that are long, intense and offer excellent flavor
authority. This is so primary that it suggests that it will require
ample time in bottle to be at its best. 90/2009-17
2002 Corton-Bressandes: A completely
different aromatic profile from the Clos des Mouches. Briar notes,
underbrush and game complement red and black fruit aromas all merging
into supple, moderately dense and beautifully textured flavors underpinned
by dusty, ripe and relatively fine tannins and a long, powerful
and intense finish suffused with minerality. For all of this wine’s
strengths however, it is the exquisite balance that will make for
old bones. In a word, terrific. 91/2009-20
2002 Nuits St. Georges “Les Procès”:
Earth, a hint of coffee and abundant red and black pinot fruit aromas
give way to remarkably fine and precise flavors that offer excellent
finishing intensity and simply stunning length. This may have been
the single biggest positive surprise in the entire line-up as it
delivers stunning quality for what is normally a middle fiddle Nuits
1er. This also has the legs to improve and last for at least 15
years. 91/2009-17
2002 Chambolle-Musigny: Red raspberry
and bright cherry aromas cut with a touch of earth merge seamlessly
into supple, precise, very clean and elegant flavors that possess
lovely finishing intensity and persistence. This is a classic Chambolle
with an airy purity of expression that is most attractive. 88/2007-12
2002 Chambolle-Musigny “1er”:
(from Noirots, Les Plantes, Combottes and Les Hauts Doix). This
is not any more elegant than the villages but it is decidedly earthier
and a good deal more complex with supple, very refined, sweet, sappy
and delicious flavors blessed with terrific persistence and a certain
breed. In short, this is really pretty juice. 90/2008-14
2002 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Baudes”:
This reminds me a bit of the Bressandes with its intense briar,
underbrush and bright black raspberry fruit aromas and round, rich,
intense and mouth coating flavors underpinned by moderate tannins
and equally good persistence. There is a bit more concentration
and first rate balance. Most impressive. 91/2009-17
2002 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Amoureuses”:
A sensational nose of subtly spiced red and black fruit aromas of
seemingly every description combine with dazzlingly elegant and
pure, sappy and seductively sweet middle weight flavors and a beautifully
textured and amazingly long back end. There is gorgeous inner mouth
perfume that stems from the ample pinot extract and this simply
exudes class. A terrific wine with more minerality than usual and
it should age for years. 93/2009-20
2002 Vosne-Romanée “Les
Petits Monts”: (this vineyard is worked by horse
and plow rather than tractor because there is no path for the tractor).
This is extremely ripe with distinct notes of plum, kirsch and hints
of chocolate and coffee that introduce sweet, round, juicy and intense
and spicy flavors that are remarkably tight and backward for such
a ripe wine. The finish is incredibly long and almost overshadowed
the next wine with its sheer persistence. 92/2009-17
2002 Echézeaux: (from
En Orveaux). Expressive and very ripe, rich and spicy black raspberry
fruit aromas lead to earthy, round and surprisingly supple flavors
supported by ample tannins that are rendered almost invisible by
the abundant sappy extract. In particular, I admire the lovely finishing
complexity and intensity. A first rate example of the appellation.
92/2010-20
2002 Grands Echézeaux:
Knockout aromas of kirsch, raspberries and red pinot fruit perfectly
complement highly complex and seriously elegant, supple and precise
yet quite powerful flavors that are intensely focused and very long
with plenty of finishing structure. This is presently linear and
quite firm with superb underlying material and this will last for
25 years with no trouble, perhaps longer. A most impressive effort
of real class and breed. 93/2012-27
2002 Clos de Vougeot: Expressive,
spicy and earthy with powerful, rich, intense and sweet flavors
that are quite supple on the mid-palate but very firm on the slightly
austere finish. While not quite as ripe as the Petits Monts, this
leans in that direction and there is real size and weight here with
relatively refined tannins. In short, this is as good a young Drouhin
Clos de Vougeot as I can remember. 93/2010-22
2002 Bonnes Mares: Expressive
and explosive aromas of blue and black berries with interesting
floral and leather nuances. The big, powerful and muscular flavors
are tight, focused and beautifully detailed and blessed with an
incredibly long and complex finish. This possesses that “wow”
factor and it will require time to fully reveal its considerable
potential. 94/2010-22+
2002 Griotte-Chambertin: The
nose here is completely different after the fireworks delivered
by the Grands Ech with its reserved, backward, discreet red fruit
aromas framed by a subtle touch of oak spice. Intriguing notes of
game, leather and earth nuances can be found on the sappy, long,
precise and focused flavors of indescribable complexity and what
is perhaps the best acid/fruit balance of these ‘02s. Understated
and supremely classy juice that is indisputably of reference standard
quality. A simply gorgeous Drouhin Griotte and worth a special search
to find. 94/2009-20
2002 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze:
Wonderfully complex red fruit and earth aromas of real depth and
detail lead to supple, strikingly textured and intense full-bodied
flavors and a powerful, tremendously long finish. This is extremely
classy juice with buried and unusually fine tannins and this should
have the ability to age for several decades, perhaps longer. 93/2012-27
2002 Musigny: Stunningly pure,
spicy and refined black fruit aromas lead to silky, velvety, concentrated
and magnificently rich flavors that ooze class and breed. The intensity
does a slow build from the richly textured mid-palate to an explosively
long finish. In short, this is a classic example of the old adage
of an iron fist in a velvet glove as the buried structure and perfect
balance will permit this to age for a very long time indeed and
if it adds additional complexity over time, my score will
seem quite conservative. 94/2014-27 |
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Philippe Drouhin and winemaker Laurence Jobard jointly agreed
that the 2001 vintage “is a bit of a pleasant surprise”
because of the hail that hit “a bit of everywhere though less
in Chassagne than in Puligny or Meursault”. They went on to
comment that “yields were generous and it was an absolute
necessity to control yields; if they weren’t, ripening was
extremely heterogeneous and it’s extremely difficult to make
very good to excellent wine with highly diverse stages of ripeness.
By contrast, we had very good maturity levels, with potential alcohol
varying between 13.2 and 13.5%. Malic acid levels were also high
and consequently, the malos were extended, which helped to keep
the maturing wines fresh because of the higher levels of CO2. We
also did a bit more bâtonnage than usual as well, enabling
the wines to feed off of their fine lees.” They went on to
note that 2001 should be an average vintage for longevity. As my
scores indicate, 2001 is not as good as the 2000 vintage was chez
Drouhin though the difference is small. (Dreyfus Ashby, New York,
NY).
2001 Rully: Simple, fruity and
delicious with ripe, slightly fat flavors that offer good finishing
intensity and enough volume and persistence to be interesting. Approachable
now as this is very forward. 85/now
2001 Meursault: Hazelnut and fresh
bread dough nose leads to round, full-bodied, fat, ample, rather
forward flavors that offer good depth and fine finishing intensity
if not necessarily fine cut or precision. Perfectly good quality
at this level, just not exceptionally so. 86/2004-8
2001 Meursault “Luraule”:
Quite seductive on the nose with peach and hazelnut aromas plus
medium weight, rounded flavors offering solid authority, all nicely
framed by ripe acidity and solid underlying minerality. There is
quality length here and if this puts on weight with additional bottle
age, it should merit the top end of my range. (86-88)/2006-10.
2001 Meursault “Perrières”:
Exceptionally pure aromas of minerals and roasted nuts are followed
by medium weight, quite backward flavors displaying fine detail
and lovely fruit-acid balance. This is already really quite harmonious
but with the solid backbone of ripe acidity, this will require several
years to really blossom. 89/2008-12
2001 Chassagne-Montrachet: Fascinating
nose of white flower fruit cut with pungent grass and herb notes
plus subtle anise hints followed by round, fat, forward, sappy flavors
that offer solid intensity and fine length. This is really quite
good for a villages level wine. 87/2006-10
2001 Chassagne-Montrachet – Marquis
de Laguiche: (100% from the 1er Morgeot). As it almost
always is, this is decidedly bigger and richer and with better nuance
as well with hints of exotic fruits and clean, crisp, even lively
flavors that offer pronounced earth notes plus excellent length,
especially for its level, even if this is technically not a villages
level wine. 89/2006-10
2001 Beaune “Clos des Mouches”:
Wonderfully intense, well focused and very pure fruit with elegant,
nicely rounded, plump yet racy flavors offering better than average
depth and a lovely note of subtle minerality on the medium length
finish. Always one of my favorite Beaune whites and this delivers
its usual high standard of quality. 89/2006-10
2001 Puligny-Montrachet: Pretty,
clean, fresh, attractively stony citrus notes lead to finely detailed,
very crisp flavors underpinned by snappy acidity. There is a lovely
racy aspect here and I especially like the elegance and finesse
on the finish. This could use a bit more mid-palate density but
this is a very pretty Puligny villages in a forward style. 87/2005-9
2001 Puligny-Montrachet “Folatières”:
Quite elegant and pure on the nose with traces of exotic fruit and
while this is quite ripe, it manages to avoid being over the top.
The round, plump, sweet flavors offer good depth and very nice complexity
coupled with the intense minerality that Folatières is justifiably
famous for. This will need a few years to really harmonize but there
is solid potential for development. 89/2007-11
2001 Corton-Charlemagne: (from
vines in Aloxe-Corton). The nose combines penetrating white flower
fruit, green apple notes and trace of toast that give way to big,
robust, masculine flavors offering excellent intensity, good fat
and solid concentration plus a finish that oozes minerality. This
is fat and rich yet positively vibrant. 91/2007-12
2001 Bâtard-Montrachet:
Big and decidedly masculine in style with intense, very ripe and
exotic fruit of peach, apricot and pineapple notes that introduce
thick, generous, rich flavors of exceptionally good density for
the vintage. Quite forward and supple for young Bâtard yet
the finish is vibrant, intense and remarkably long. Quality juice.
91/2007-12
2001 Montrachet – Marquis de Laguiche
: Highly perfumed aromas of honeysuckle and ripe peach introduce
big, rich, even robust, wonderfully concentrated flavors of limestone,
citrus and an attractive brown butter quality all underpinned by
beautiful intensity and exquisite length. This is a big Montrachet,
especially compared to the more refined and understated style that
Drouhin has issued over the years. A very impressive effort for
the medium term. (91-93)/2009-15 |
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Issue #165
2004 Domaine
Joseph Drouhin Chablis les Clos

An outstanding wine, Drouhin’s 2004 Chablis
Les Clos is fermented and aged in one- to five-year-old barrels. Its
toasty mineral and vanilla bean-scented aromatics lead to a medium to
full-bodied personality awash in fruits. Creamy minerals and pears are
found in its concentrated, focused, and lengthy character. Drink this
beauty between 2007 and 2014.
2004 Domaine
Joseph Drouhin Chablis Domaine
de Vaudon

The 2004 Chablis Domaine de Vaudon bursts from
the glass with creamed lemons, minerals, and spices. This medium-bodied
wine reveals lovely white pepper, pear, and candied lemon flavors in
its satin-textured, well-focused character. Drink it over the next 3-4
years.
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2004 Musigny

An exotic and spicy nose features raspberry, red
current, anise and clove notes that give way to sweet, classy and notably
finely detailed flavors that are also relatively forward early but tighten
up considerably on the backend. In most vintages, this is the undisputed
class of the cellar and while it may ultimately be so once again, in
2004 it has competition. Still, lovely stuff by any standard.
2004 Grands Echézeaux

A noticeably more elegant
nose that is stunningly pure with a really lovely mix of black pinot
fruit
and violet aromas that lead to rich, sweet and stylish medium full flavors
that offer exceptionally good detail and admirably well-integrated structure
on the tight and long finish. As this wine usually goes, the tannins
are quite refined and while this is not a truly big wine, the class
is immediately obvious. If I were only going to buy one of the ’04
Drouhin grands crus, it would either be this or the Musigny.
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